"FEATURE: Making A Fire-Breathing Mac"
By Mitch Gallagher
Since
most of us base our studios around computers, it makes sense to ensure that
the computers we use are as capable as possible. In my case, my studio has
been running on a faithful first-generation dual-G5 Macintosh for a number of
years. It’s reached the time when I am compelled to upgrade my studio with a
new computer, so I’m moving everything over to a state-of-the-art
Nehalem-based (Xeon) 8-core Mac Pro. But even with a stout computer like the
new Mac Pro, it makes sense to try to wring every cycle of performance out of
the machine that you can — more power is always better in the studio.
Let’s take a look at some of the things we can do to maximize computer
performance. Though the items we’ll be looking at are specific to the Mac Pro,
the basic concepts we’ll be discussing apply to any computer you might be
using in your studio.
As far as the Mac Pro goes, it is a well-appointed machine straight from
the factory. It has loads of CPU power from eight cores on two processors,
dual monitor outputs, three PCIe slots (plus a double-wide graphics slot),
four FireWire 800 ports, seven USB 2.0 ports (counting the two on the
keyboard), stereo audio in and out (which supports analog and digital/optical
signals), a headphone out, two Ethernet ports, built-in Bluetooth, optional
Airport wireless, and more. But even with all that power and connectivity,
there are three areas I want to expand: RAM, monitors, and internal storage.
MEMORY
The Mac Pro I’m putting into my studio came stock from the factory with
6GB of RAM installed. This is a good amount, but given the manner in which
memory is managed by some applications, plug-ins, and software instruments, I
wanted more. (I’m a firm believer that the most effective way to increase
computer performance is to add more RAM.) For example, the operating system
requires a certain amount of RAM, and plenty extra should be available for
best performance. Then, an application like Logic and its plug-ins and
third-party plug-ins require another chunk of RAM. And some software
instruments, such as Logic’s EXS24 sampler and Native Instruments’ Kontakt
sampler, also require RAM outside the host application for sample storage use
— and with the size of sample libraries these days, more RAM is definitely
better!
While the 6GBs of RAM that came stock, or even smaller amounts, will
function well, having plenty of extra RAM will make everything operate much
faster. So, the first upgrade is to take the RAM up.
Apple’s Mac Pro computers feature four RAM slots per processor, but the
best performance is achieved with the first three of those slots for each
processor filled. The computer came with six 1GB sticks, three per processor.
For my purposes, I wanted to go to 12GB of RAM, so I replaced the six 1GB
sticks with six 2GB sticks. But, since I have six unused 1GB RAM sticks lying
around, I decided to move two of the 1GB sticks into the remaining two RAM
slots, for a total of 14GB. This should be more than enough memory for great
performance with any music/audio application, plug-in, or instrument.
GETTING INSIDE THE MACHINE
One thing that Macs have had going for them for several recent
generations is that they’re exceptionally easy to get inside of and to expand.
Even given that tradition, the new Mac Pro computers are works of engineering
elegance; adding RAM and other expansions to them is a piece of cake!
Replacing the RAM in the new (Nehalem) Mac Pros is a simple process with just
a few steps:
First, with the computer plugged in but turned off, discharge any static
electricity your body may have accumulated by touching the metal case of the
computer. Unplug all cables connected to the computer, including the power
cable. (Text continues after photos, below.)
Pull the latch on the back of the Mac to
release the side panel.
Tilt the top of the side panel out, then lift
the side panel off the computer.
Push the outsides of the latches at the bottom
of the processor tray.
Pull the latches to release the processor
tray.
Slide out the processor tray.
The computer came with 6GB of RAM installed.
Three sticks in these slots, and three sticks in the slots behind the second
processor (on the left). Open the ejector clips at the end of each RAM slot,
and pull out the existing stick (if one is installed).
All six factory RAM sticks have been removed;
all eight RAM slots are now empty.
Slide in the RAM sticks until the ejector
clips at the end of of the slot snap into place. The sticks have a slot in
the bottom that only allows them to be inserted in one direction, so you
don't have to worry about putting them in the wrong way. NOTE: Be careful
when handling RAM sticks; grasp them from the ends, and never touch the gold
traces or components.
Slide the processor tray back into the
computer. The tray will pretty much guide itself using the pins on the
bottom of the computer chassis. No pressure should be required to get the
tray back in.
Close up the computer by repositioning the
side panel and closing the latch on the rear of the computer.
Boot the computer. If there is a RAM configuration that will provide
better performance than the one you have selected, then the Memory Slot
Utility will open and suggest a more optimal arrangement of the RAM sticks in
the slots.
Once you’re finished, and the computer is happy with your RAM
configuration, choose “About this Mac” under the Apple menu and verify that
all the RAM you installed is showing up.
I’ve installed a lot of RAM in a lot of computers, and
this is the easiest process I’ve ever experienced.
INTERNAL STORAGE
The Mac Pro supports up to four internal SATA or SAS (Serial Attached
SCSI) hard drives and up to two internal SuperDrive CD/DVD optical drives. My
machine came with one internal 640GB hard drive and one SuperDrive installed.
I’ll be adding three more 500GB hard drives to the machine. The 640GB drive
will be the system drive and will hold the operating system and all the
software. One 500GB drive will be dedicated to recording audio tracks. One
will be dedicated to storing large libraries for software instruments — large
virtual drums in particular. The last 500GB drive will be used for backup.
As with installing RAM in the computer, adding additional hard drives to
the Mac Pro is an easy process.
With the computer plugged in but turned off, discharge any static
electricity your body may have accumulated by touching the metal case of the
computer. Unplug all cables connected to the computer, including the power
cable. (Text continues after photos, below.)
-
Remove the right side panel (when facing the
front) of the Mac by pulling the latch on the back, then tilting the top
of the panel out and lifting the panel up and away from the computer.
Lift the latch (the same latch on the rear
panel that locks the side panel in place) to release the hard drive
carriers.
Slide out the carrier(s).
Position the carrier over the hard drive; be
careful not to drag the attached screws across the circuitry on the drive.
Use the screws attached to the carrier to
attach it to the hard drive. This is the only part of the process that
requires a tool — a small Phillips screwdriver.
Lift the latch on the rear of the computer and
slide the hard drive carrier back into the computer.
Close up the computer. When you start up the machine, the hard drives
you’ve added should show up on the desktop, or the operating system should
tell you that the new drives need to be initialized.
TAKING IT FURTHER
Need more hard drive space? You could install larger drives in the
machine — new Mac Pros can use up to 2TB drives for a total of up to 8TB of
storage!
Or, if you need another separate drive, there are solutions available
that allow you to install one in the unused optical bay, for a total of five
internal hard drives. There is even one solution that will isolate the drive
from the optical bay and reduce any ambient noise it creates. (Google
something like “add 5th hard drive Mac Pro” to find information.) A fifth
drive will show up and be accessible to the Mac OS just as any other internal
drive would. However, if you’re running Windows on your Mac, it will not be
able to see the fifth hard drive.
The Mac Pro's video card features two outputs,
one DVI, the other a Mini DisplayPort.
MONITORS
The Mac Pro comes with a dual-monitor video card installed. One monitor
port is a dual-link DVI port, which will connect to Apple monitors or other
monitors up to 30 inches in size. The second port is a Mini DisplayPort, which
supports direct connection of the new Apple LED Cinema display. (A similar
port is found on other newer Mac models, such as the MacBook Pro and the Mac
Mini.) You can also get adapters for converting the Mini DisplayPort to VGA or
DVI. I have two Acer 22-inch monitors in my studio, which connect via DVI or
VGA; I’ll be using both these monitors with the Mac Pro. One connects to the
DVI out, the other to the Mini DisplayPort, using an adapter.
NOW WE’RE ROCKING
With these expansions, I’ve got a computer that will tear its way
through just about any task I will be throwing at it — though I’m sure there
will be new software out soon that will make me want even more power! But
until then, these simple upgrades have taken the computer to an entirely new
level.
Dangerous Music 2-BUS LT Analog Summing Mixer
Analog summing is a hot topic these days; it seems as if every day there is
another story or press release about some “name” engineer making the move to
using an external summing box or mixer with his DAW. But aren’t DAWs supposed
to be the “one-stop” tool for all audio creation? Does analog or external
digital summing really sound that different from in-the-box summing
in your DAW?
A few years ago, when I was the editor in chief at EQ magazine, I
reviewed a product called Awesome DAWSUM. It was a 2-CD set created
by engineer/producer/gear guru Lynn Fuston, and it contained stereo WAV files
of the same mix done using 29 different platforms: various DAWs, digital
mixers, analog mixers, and dedicated summing boxes. Nothing changed from mix
to mix, except for how the final stereo summing was accomplished. The idea was
for you to load the mixes into your DAW and attempt to identify which was
which based purely on the sonics. Could you pick out the DAW summing? Hear a
particular mixer? How about detect when a summing box was used?
Manley Laboratories 16x2 Analog Mixer
Listening blind, the test was tough. However, with repeated listening, I
did learn to identify particular tracks. And when I sat down with the key to
what was what, and learned the sound of particular summing hardware or
software, I was then able to pick out more of the various platforms.
But I won’t tell you that the differences were significant, or that it was
easy — even under very controlled conditions — to pick out different mixes,
let alone determine which was “better.” Would a “casual” listener hear the
difference? Maybe, maybe not. I came away skeptical of the value of external
summing. Still, what I couldn’t argue was that there were subtle sonic
differences between the various summing platforms.
Tube Tech SSA 2B Stereo Summing Amplifier
Then, about six months ago, I had a chance to install a couple of Dangerous
Music summing boxes — a D-Box, which was later replaced with a 2-Bus LT and a
Monitor ST — into my studio and to live with them for a while. After redoing a
couple of mixes I had previously done entirely in the box, I was convinced:
summing is the way to go — but maybe not for the reasons you expect!
So, what happens when you add a summing box? There are several areas where
you may or may not notice changes.
Sound Quality
You will likely notice a change in the overall sound quality of your mixes;
I encourage you to try some blind listening tests to see just how much real
difference you can perceive. Some engineers suggest that the biggest
difference results from the increase in headroom that a summing device can
provide over a DAW’s summing bus; others dispute this.
TL Audio Fat Track Tube Summing Mixer
External Processing
Incorporating external analog
processing, such as compression or EQ, into a system using external summing
works well — and it eliminates an extra set of digital-to-analog and
analog-to-digital conversions that your audio would go through if you were to
incorporate an analog processor into a DAW insert loop. Not long after I added
the summing box to my rig, I began lusting after analog processing hardware —
compressors and equalizers, to be exact. And once you start incorporating
analog gear, a patch bay is the next item you may find yourself wanting, in
order to be able to route the audio through the processors flexibly.
Toft Audio ATB16 Analog Console
Using analog hardware in your mixes moves you out of the realm of modeled
coloration — which, admittedly, can sound awesome — and back into the world of
real analog coloration. Real tubes and real analog circuits will impart a
“sound” to your mixes. The tradeoff is that you’ll need to carefully manage
gain staging, control background noise, and…horrors…have to make your
own settings by hand, without using presets.
Feel
This may sound strange, but the biggest difference I noticed when switching
over to a summing box was the feel of doing the mix. It took me back
to my days of working on an analog console. There was a “feel” and a response
to making EQ changes using a console that is different from making those
changes in a DAW — not better, not worse, just different. Even when
using a plug-in EQ through a summing box, there is a difference to how it
feels and how I perceive it. I find I enjoy it.
Along the same lines, I found myself using less compression when I used a
summing box than when I made an in-the-box mix. Whether this is because of the
analog sound, the headroom difference, or some other factor, I don’t know. But
I do know that I ended up compressing less, which resulted in more open,
clarified mixes with better dynamics.
Dangerous Music 2-BUS Analog Summing Mixer
The biggest thing you give up when you go to an external summing device is
the recall of all your mixer and processor settings. If all you’re doing is
summing externally through a dedicated summing box, then your DAW’s recall
will still work fine. But, as soon as you incorporate any kind of analog
processing or analog mix changes, if you then want to recall a mix, you’re
going to have to manually reset the knobs and buttons on the analog pieces.
This means keeping careful records of all the settings and routings you’re
using for a mix.
Using a summing box has definitely made a big difference in how I work and
in the results I achieve. If you’re looking for a huge sonic difference from
summing alone, then you may or may not get your wish. But the other benefits
are well worth exploring. Whether you go with a mixer for summing or use a
dedicated summing box, moving outside the box may be just what you need to
bring your mixes to life.
filed in
Issue 1 on May.20, 2009
Analog
summing is a hot topic these days; it seems as if every day there is another
story or press release on some “name” engineer making the move to using an
external summing box or mixer with his DAW. But aren’t DAWs supposed to be
the “one-stop” tool for all audio creation? Does analog or external digital
summing really sound that different from in-the-box summing in your DAW? A
few years ago, when I was the editor in chief at EQ magazine, I
reviewed a product called Awesome DAWSUM. [...]